Almada isn’t Lisbon but you can see Lisbon from your balcony. Takes 12 minutes by ferry. Costs €1.50. Yet rent is €400 instead of €1,200 and the American colony growing there has figured out what everyone else missed: you can live across the river from a European capital for less than a car payment.
The south bank of the Tejo River is Portugal’s best-kept secret. All the Lisbon benefits – weather, food, culture – without the digital nomad inflation. Almada and Cacilhas specifically have become American refugee camps for people who want Portugal without bankruptcy.
Three hundred Americans now live in this neighborhood nobody can pronounce. They’re teachers, remote workers, retirees, artists. Living on $1,200 monthly. Not surviving. Actually living. With river views and wine budgets and money left over.
The Geography Hack Nobody Understands
Lisbon proper: Everyone fights for apartments, prices explode, €1,500 for a studio, digital nomads everywhere.
Almada: Literally visible from Lisbon. Ferry every 15 minutes. Metro connection coming 2025. Third the price.
It’s like living in Jersey City versus Manhattan but the ferry is €1.50 and Jersey is beautiful and full of Portuguese grandmothers who bring you soup.
Americans discovered this accidentally. One couple couldn’t afford Lisbon, tried Almada “temporarily,” never left. Told friends. Who told friends. Now there’s a whole community paying nothing to live in paradise adjacent.
What $1,200 Actually Covers
Rent: €400-500 for one-bedroom with river view Utilities: €50 (electricity, water, gas) Internet: €30 (fiber, perfect for remote work) Phone: €20 (unlimited everything) Transport: €40 (ferry pass) Groceries: €200 (shopping at markets) Restaurants: €100 (eating out twice weekly) Wine/beer: €40 (priorities) Misc: €120 (clothes, pharmacy, whatever)
Total: €1,000 ($1,100)
Buffer of $100 monthly for emergencies or savings. Some Americans living on less. Some spending the extra on weekend trips.
The Apartments That Don’t Make Sense
Found these actual listings this week:
T1 (one-bedroom) Cacilhas: €425/month. Fourth floor, elevator, balcony facing river, 65m², grandmother landlord who includes utilities because she can’t be bothered calculating them.
T2 (two-bedroom) Almada Velha: €550/month. Traditional tiles, high ceilings, needs some paint but who cares, terrace with bridge view, landlord lives in France and just wants reliable tenant.
Studio in Pragal: €350/month. New building, modern everything, near future metro station, landlord is developer trying to establish area.
Same apartments in Lisbon: €1,200-1,800. Twelve minutes away by ferry.
The math doesn’t math but it’s real.
The American Colony Already There
Jennifer, 34, from Austin: Graphic designer, works remote, pays €450 rent, saves $2,000 monthly. “I was broke making $65,000 in Austin. Now I save money making $40,000.”
Bob and Marie, 60s, from Phoenix: Early retirement on Social Security. $2,400 monthly combined. Living better than they did on $80,000 in Arizona. “We eat out more, travel more, stress less.”
Tyler, 28, from Boston: Teaching English online, making $1,500 monthly. Pays €400 rent. “I work 20 hours weekly and live better than when I worked 60 hours in finance.”
Sarah, 41, from Seattle: Freelance writer. Inconsistent income ($800-3000 monthly). Never worried because base costs are €700. “Bad months here are better than good months in Seattle.”
None are rich. All are living better than they did in America.
The Ferry System That Changes Everything
Cacilhas to Cais do Sodré (main Lisbon): 12 minutes. €1.50. Every 15 minutes until 1 AM.
The ferry is part of the experience. Sunset rides. Morning coffee on deck. Tourists pay €25 for river cruises. Residents get it twice daily for €3.
Better than any commute in America. No traffic. No stress. Just water and views and seagulls. Some Americans say the ferry ride alone is worth moving.
Late night Uber from Lisbon: €15. Still cheaper than one drink in Manhattan.
The Food Costs That Break American Brains
Almada municipal market:
- Whole fish: €3
- Kg of tomatoes: €0.80
- Bottle of decent wine: €2.50
- Bread: €0.30
- Dozen eggs: €1.20
- Chunk of real cheese: €3
Weekly market haul: €20-25 for actual food. Not processed garbage. Food that Portuguese grandmothers approve of.
Restaurants are neighborhood places, not tourist traps:
- Full lunch (soup, main, wine, coffee): €7
- Dinner for two with wine: €25
- Coffee and pastry: €1.50
Americans spending less on food while eating better. The paradox that breaks every economic model.
The Healthcare Situation
As resident (after 3 months), you get health number. Public healthcare essentially free. But even private is affordable:
- Doctor visit (private): €40
- Dentist cleaning: €30
- Specialist: €60
- Emergency room (private): €75
One American had appendix surgery. Total cost: €95 for private room upgrade. In America: $45,000 minimum.
Some Americans flying to Portugal just for dental work. Cheaper including flights than American dentist.
The Language Non-Problem
Almada is real Portugal. Less English than Lisbon. But Portuguese people under 40 speak English. Older people try. Google translate fills gaps.
The Americans learning Portuguese (free classes at community center) integrate better. But plenty surviving on “Bom dia,” “Obrigado,” and pointing.
Portuguese appreciate attempts. Unlike French, they don’t punish bad pronunciation. They help. They’re patient. They’re happy you’re trying.
The Remote Work Paradise
Fiber internet everywhere. €30 monthly for speeds that cost $150 in America.
Coworking spaces: €50 monthly (but why pay when cafes exist?)
Cafes don’t kick you out. Buy €1 coffee, work four hours, nobody cares. Not WiFi cafes – just regular cafes where locals read newspapers for hours.
Time zones work for American clients. East Coast meetings at lunch. West Coast meetings at dinner. No 3 AM calls like from Asia.
The Social Life That Costs Nothing
Americans meet at:
- Ferry terminal bar (€1 beers watching sunset)
- Almada Forum food court (weird but works)
- Beach bars in Costa da Caparica (bus €2, beer €2)
- Someone’s apartment terrace (weekly rotation)
No $18 cocktails. No cover charges. No VIP sections. Just humans drinking €2 Super Bock and complaining about American healthcare.
Portuguese neighbors invite Americans for dinner. Not networking. Just dinner. Bring €5 wine. Eat for three hours. Make actual friends.
The Visa Routes People Use
D7 (passive income): Need €760/month income. Social Security counts. Retirement counts. Remote work counts. Investment income counts.
Digital nomad visa: Need €3,000/month income but only stay one year. Some use it as stepping stone to D7.
Student visa: Enroll in Portuguese classes (€500/semester). Get visa. Learn language. Transfer to residence permit.
The bureaucracy is real but manageable. SEF (immigration) is slow but not mean. Bring patience and paperwork. Eventually works out.
After five years: Permanent residence After six years: Citizenship eligible Portuguese passport = EU passport = freedom
What’s changed
In Portugal, residents are taxed on their worldwide income, and in 2025 the personal income tax brackets for residents now range from about 12.5% up to 48% (depending on income) plus solidarity surcharges.
The previous flagship regime, the NHR (Non-Habitual Resident) status, allowed many new Portuguese tax residents to enjoy favourable tax treatment on foreign-source income (dividends, interest, capital gains, pensions) under certain conditions.
That regime has been phased out for most new applicants and replaced by the IFICI programme. Under IFICI (often described as “NHR 2.0”), only individuals who qualify (principally via “highly qualified professions”, innovation or research roles, or certain strategic activities) may benefit from special tax treatment.
Among the changes is the fact that foreign-sourced income such as pensions, dividends, and capital gains are now more tightly controlled and often taxed at the regular resident rates unless covered by a double tax treaty or other specific exemption.
The Weather Bonus
300 days of sun. Winters are 55°F and rainy, not frozen hellscape. Summers are hot but ocean breeze fixes everything.
No heating bills. No AC needed. Maybe a space heater for January. Maybe a fan for August. Energy costs nothing because you don’t use any.
Seasonal depression doesn’t exist when it’s sunny in December. Worth the move just for mental health.
The Things to Actually Know
Laundry: Apartments rarely have dryers. Hang clothes outside like Europeans do. They smell better anyway.
Kitchens: Often basic. Bring your own toaster. But who needs gadgets when restaurants are €7?
Noise: Portuguese stay up late. Neighbors talk until 2 AM. Not rude, just cultural. Earplugs or embrace it.
Bureaucracy: Everything takes forever. Banks, residency, utilities. Start early. Bring books. Stay calm.
Cash: Still king in Almada. ATMs everywhere but small businesses prefer cash.
The Transportation Beyond Ferry
Buses: Extensive network. €1.50 anywhere. Google Maps actually works for Portuguese transit.
Metro: Coming 2025. Will connect Almada directly to Lisbon airport. Property values will double. Buy now.
Uber: €5-8 anywhere in Almada. €15 to Lisbon center. €25 to airport.
Bike: Flat along river. Hills inland. Electric bikes conquering everything. €300 used.
Walking: Everything walkable. Groceries, restaurants, ferry. Americans discovering feet work.
The Beach Situation
Costa da Caparica: 20 minutes by bus. 30km of beaches. Not touristy past the first 2km.
Beach bars (barracas) open May-October. Fresh fish, cold beer, feet in sand, €10 lunch.
Surfing, kitesurfing, or just reading. Beach rental: €5 umbrella, €3 chair. Or free if you just use towel like local.
Americans spending weekends at beach for less than one Brooklyn brunch.
The Retirement Reality
American couple needs $5,000/month to retire in Florida. Same couple needs $1,500/month in Almada.
Social Security average: $1,827/month Almada costs: $1,200/month Leftover: $627/month for travel, savings, life
Some Americans retiring at 55 instead of 67. The math works when rent is €400 instead of $2,000.
The Problems Nobody Mentions
Island fever: Almada is small. After six months, you’ve seen everything twice.
Dating: Limited pool if you’re single. Lisbon helps but still small expat community.
Career: Great for remote work, retirement, freelance. Terrible for traditional careers.
Portuguese salaries: If you work locally, pay is €700-1,000/month. Only works with American income.
Summer tourists: July-August, beaches get crowded. Peaceful place becomes less peaceful.
Gentrification guilt: Americans with dollars pricing out locals earning euros. It’s happening.
The Future Changes Coming
Metro in 2025 will change everything. Direct airport connection. Direct connection to Lisbon center. Almada becomes “real” Lisbon without ferry.
Prices will rise. The €400 apartments will be €700. Still cheap but not this cheap.
Americans arriving now are the last wave before it becomes discovered. Like Lisbon in 2015. Like Austin in 2005.
The Actual Steps to Move
- Book Airbnb for month ($500-700)
- Look at apartments (Facebook Marketplace, Idealista)
- Pick one (they’re all similar and cheap)
- Open bank account (Millennium or CGD easiest)
- Get NIF (tax number) – hire lawyer for €50
- Sign lease
- Start residency process
Total setup cost: $2,000 including flights. Then $1,200/month to live.
The Community Support
“Americans in Almada” Facebook group: 300 members. Every question answered. Apartments shared. Doctors recommended. Portuguese lessons organized.
“Almada Expats” WhatsApp: Daily chatter. Someone always knows answer. Beach trips organized. Bureaucracy help offered.
The Americans help each other because they remember arriving confused. Pay it forward culture. Someone will meet you at ferry first day if asked.
The Work Options If Needed
Teaching English: €15-20/hour private lessons. Almada families want American accents.
Tour guide: Illegal but done. Americans showing Americans around. €50 per tour.
Pet sitting: Portuguese travel. Need pet sitters. €30/day. Free apartment while sitting.
Freelance anything: Design, writing, consulting. Global clients, Portuguese prices.
Some Americans arrive with savings, find local income streams, never touch savings.
The Comparison That Matters
Phoenix: $1,800 rent, $200 utilities, $150 car insurance, $200 gas. Need $3,500/month minimum. Die of heat. No culture. Strip malls.
Portland: $2,200 rent, $150 utilities, $100 transport. Need $3,800/month. Rain depression. Homeless crisis. Expensive beer.
Almada: €400 rent, €50 utilities, €40 transport. Need $1,200/month. River views. Beach access. €1 wine. Europe.
The choice seems obvious but Americans stay in expensive cities because… because… actually, why?
The Final Reality
Three hundred Americans are living in Almada on $1,200 monthly. Not surviving. Living. With savings. With travel. With healthcare. With dignity.
They’re not special. Not rich. Not lucky. They just did math and bought plane tickets.
Almada doesn’t care if more Americans come. Portuguese landlords happy for reliable tenants. Locals happy for economic boost. Everyone wins except American landlords charging $2,500 for studio apartments.
The ferry runs every 15 minutes. The apartments are €400. The wine is €2. The emergency room is free. The beach is 20 minutes away.
Your excuse for paying $3,000 rent in Austin is what exactly?
Almada exists. Today. Now. €400 apartments with river views across from a European capital.
The only question is whether you’ll google “Cacilhas ferry” or keep complaining about rent while doing nothing.
The Americans in Almada stopped complaining. Started living. On $1,200 monthly.
In Europe. With healthcare. And river views. And €1 coffees.
While you’re reading this from your $2,000 apartment in a city you don’t even like.
Almada is waiting. The ferry is running. The apartments are empty. The grandmothers have soup.
$1,200 monthly. That’s all. That’s it.
Pack a suitcase or keep paying half your income for the privilege of being miserable in America.
Your choice.
But 300 Americans already chose.
And they’re watching the sunset over Lisbon from their €400 balcony right now.
Drinking €2 wine. Living their actual life. Not their theoretical future life. Their actual current life.
On $1,200 monthly.
In Almada.
Google it.
About the Author: Ruben, co-founder of Gamintraveler.com since 2014, is a seasoned traveler from Spain who has explored over 100 countries since 2009. Known for his extensive travel adventures across South America, Europe, the US, Australia, New Zealand, Asia, and Africa, Ruben combines his passion for adventurous yet sustainable living with his love for cycling, highlighted by his remarkable 5-month bicycle journey from Spain to Norway. He currently resides in Spain, where he continues sharing his travel experiences with his partner, Rachel, and their son, Han.