Espetos: The Spanish Sardine Skewers That Tourists Always Get Wrong (Here’s How to Make Them Right)

If you’ve ever strolled along the beaches of Málaga or the Costa del Sol, chances are you’ve seen rows of sardines sizzling over open flames, skewered on wooden sticks and cooked in the sand. These are espetos, one of Spain’s most iconic seaside foods, and a dish that’s been loved for centuries by locals.

Unlike many elaborate Spanish dishes, espetos are a celebration of simplicity. Fresh sardines, coarse sea salt, and fire are all you really need. But the technique is what makes them special—grilling them upright in the sand beside a wood fire, where the smoky aroma and salty sea air create a flavor that’s almost impossible to replicate indoors.

This dish isn’t just about food; it’s about culture. Espetos represent the Mediterranean lifestyle of slowing down, enjoying the outdoors, and appreciating ingredients in their most natural form.

The best Spanish food to try, Breakfast in Spain,  and vegetarian food in Spain

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How to Eat

The best way to enjoy espetos is with your hands, just as locals do on the beach. Once grilled, the sardines develop crispy skin that peels back easily, revealing tender, smoky meat underneath. Don’t be afraid to get a little messy—it’s part of the experience.

Each sardine should be eaten whole, pulling the flesh gently away from the bone. The flavor is rich and salty, and pairs beautifully with the smell of the sea in the background. It’s a dish that feels primal yet refined.

Traditionally, sardines are eaten hot off the skewer with just a sprinkle of extra salt or a squeeze of lemon. No complicated sauces, no side condiments—just the pure flavor of the fish and fire.

How to Partner

Espetos pair best with a cold drink. A crisp Spanish lager or a glass of chilled white wine like Albariño or Verdejo cuts through the fattiness of the sardines and refreshes the palate.

If you prefer something non-alcoholic, sparkling water with lemon is an excellent choice. It mirrors the freshness of the fish while cleansing your taste buds.

For a more complete meal, espetos can be served alongside a light salad of tomatoes, onions, and olives, or even a plate of grilled vegetables. Their simplicity makes them a versatile partner to other Mediterranean dishes.

One controversy surrounding espetos lies in authenticity. Purists insist sardines are the only fish that should be used, but some restaurants substitute other varieties like mackerel or anchovies. Locals often argue that without sardines, it’s not a true espeto.

There’s also debate about where and how they should be cooked. Traditionalists say espetos must be grilled upright in the sand beside a wood fire, while modern chefs often resort to metal grills for convenience. This raises the question—does convenience dilute the tradition, or is it a natural evolution of the dish?

Finally, sustainability sparks conversation. Overfishing has affected sardine populations in recent years, and some argue that promoting espetos may put pressure on local stocks. Others counter that preserving cultural traditions should coexist with responsible fishing practices.

How to Make Espetos Sardine Skewers

Espetos Sardine Skewers Recipe Ingredients

12 fresh sardines, cleaned and gutted
Coarse sea salt
Olive oil (optional, for drizzling)
Lemon wedges, for serving

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Step By Step How to Make Espetos Sardine Skewers

Prepare the Sardines

Rinse the sardines under cold water and pat them dry with paper towels. Ensure they are thoroughly cleaned and gutted. You can use large wooden skewers or metal ones. Thread the sardines onto the skewers through the belly, with about 3-4 sardines per skewer, depending on their size. This keeps them secure while cooking.

Preheat the Grill

If you’re using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal and wait until the coals are white-hot and covered with ash. This indicates that they are at the perfect temperature for grilling.

Season the Sardines

Generously season the sardines with coarse sea salt. This not only flavors the fish but also helps in forming a slight crust on the outside when grilled.

Grilling the Sardines

Place the skewers on the grill directly over the coals. Grill the sardines for about 4-5 minutes on each side, depending on their size. The skin should be crisp and slightly charred when they’re done. Optionally, drizzle a little olive oil over the sardines while they cook for added flavor.

Serving

Serve the sardines hot right off the grill. Provide lemon wedges on the side for squeezing over the fish to add a fresh zesty flavor.

Tips For Making Espetos Sardine Skewers

Fresh sardines are essential for this dish, as their flavor is best when freshly caught. Sardines are delicate and cook quickly. Overcooking can make them dry and tough.

Traditionally, espetos are cooked over a wood fire, particularly with olive or grape wood, which adds a distinctive smoky flavor. If possible, replicate this method.

How Many Calories Have Espetos Sardine Skewers

Sardines are very healthy, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, and relatively low in calories. A single grilled sardine contains about 25-30 calories, so a skewer with 4 sardines would be about 100-120 calories, excluding any added olive oil.

Serving Suggestions

Espetos are best served outdoors, ideally on the beach or in a backyard setting with an open flame. Their smoky aroma and rustic presentation shine in the open air.

Keep sides minimal to let the sardines remain the star. Fresh bread, a wedge of lemon, and a crisp salad are all you need to create a balanced meal.

For a more festive gathering, serve them alongside other Spanish classics like gazpacho, patatas bravas, or a simple tortilla española. This turns a humble dish into a Mediterranean feast.

Final Thoughts

Espetos are proof that sometimes the simplest foods can be the most memorable. With just a handful of ingredients, this dish manages to capture the essence of Spanish coastal culture and tradition.

They’re also a reminder of the importance of eating seasonally and locally. Fresh sardines, enjoyed in summer with the sea breeze nearby, taste entirely different from frozen substitutes eaten elsewhere.

Whether you’re recreating espetos at home or tasting them fresh on a Spanish beach, this dish offers more than just flavor—it’s an experience, one that connects you directly to Spain’s rich culinary heritage.